![]() Hint: slightly preshrink and use a super-small screwdriver to jam them in there.) With either method, you can tell the diode orientation easily if the diode is slightly unfocused. (Getting heat-shrink tubing all the way down on 3.8mm diodes takes practice. Do this with the power off so you don't burn out the diode or short it out if you don't have heat-shrink tubing all the way down to the base of the diode. You can either loosen the screws on the back-plate a bit and then rotate as necessary. Now there's a couple tricks for rotating a diode in Dave's mounts. Rotation is necessary for getting polarization right for your PBS cubes for combining and even in non-PBS'd builds you generally want your beams to have the same fast and slow axis alignment for better beam overlap. ![]() The downside of Dave's is rotating the diodes is more challenging of course. This makes alignment much easier as all the diodes are hitting your dichros as the same height, where as the rail mounts require you to either elevate them or shim them to get the beam to hit your dichros at the right height. Dave's look better in my opinion too.Īlthough I have built several using both approaches, I prefer Dave's because the beam comes out perpendicular to the plate instead of at a slight angle like the shaft rail mounts do. Well, I'd say that the shaft mounts are easier to build for a newbie, but in my experience Dave's mounts are easier to align and take up less space in a build. In reality my stuff looks like steampunk. The level of real knowledge is highly variable. In fact use as terminals now there is no flex issue with the leads.Īnd remember everything you hear here is an opinion. Most glue it to the top of the brass mount. It will slide a little when you lock it down so be slow and adjust the screws.Īdd lasorb just cuz. You can just slide the diode around to align and then lock in place. Add tube on the wires for strain relief and shorting. For 9mm diodes you have to drill the back. Make sure you you solder up the diode add heat shrink tube. If it was copper it would always be the choice. Dave’s like the one you show are much easier to change a diode and mount align. For the power you are using it’s irrelavent for heat sinking but for larger high power brass isn’t the best but can and does work. My diodes are only in the 80 to 200 mW range, but I wouldn't want to risk under-cooling them.Īny thoughts? I appreciate I could suck it up and ditch the connectors but given I've got 6 diodes to work with and I'm not at my happiest soldering, I'd prefer the additional confidence and safety they'll provide. Or there's the SK12 rail type which fits the bill for both:īut doesn't look as effective from a heatsinking perspective. I'm less confident I'd be able to fit a socket though, because of the depth of the backplate and because unlike a directly soldered and heatshrunk connection, it's going to leave bare pins passing through that backplate (!) I guess with a bit of practice, I could learn to orientate the diode (by trial and error if it's not a tight fit, or before I fit it if it is): once it's done, it's done lets me to use a connection socket for the diodeĭoes that rule out the Lasershow Parts type brass mount type, which I'd quite like to go for?. ![]() ![]()
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